Of pizzas and briatori.
I don't know why, sometimes there are rather tribunal controversies that are kept alive by the press for the sole purpose of filling pages. And on these controversies then indignations are triggered, because there is no pleasure in making controversy if you are not indignant, it is like playing football without scoring goals. It does not make sense.
And so the first part of the briatore explains that he puts very expensive ingredients on the pizza, and therefore MUST cost dearly: for example, he says, if you want the pata negra on the pizza you have to resign that the pizza costs you 65 euros, as if they put it. a kilogram. But this is not the point.
The point is that Briatore describes the apotheosis of bad eating.
PAta Negra is the best ham in the world. Sic et simpliciter. There is no competition with Parma, or with Norcia. It is simply off the scale. The characteristics are the scent of the herbs in which it is raised, and a combination of fats and acids that melt the fat around 32/35 ° C. Since the human body is at 36/37, it goes without saying that if you want to feel it melt in your mouth, you have to eat it raw and cold.
And Briatore puts it on a pizza. About something that makes a strong smell of pasta and more, and as if that weren't enough, it will melt the fat before it enters your mouth.
If you put pata negra on a pizza, you have just ruined it. You don't know how to eat. You have no idea what the experience of eating is. You are pigs in front of the trough. You could have put pineapple in it, and at least you would have looked like Germans on vacation, but if you put pata negra in it you are truly tasteless animals.
According to almost all experts, Pata Negra should be consumed at temperatures around 21/23 degrees. Normally it is eaten with slices of COLD bread, in Catalonia sometimes with two drops of oil or by rubbing a tomato (on bread, not ham). Let it be clear that ham is not put on bread, it is eaten together with bread, first one and then the other.
If you put Pata Negra on a hot pizza, you are enriched animals with no sense of taste. You could enter the pig menagerie and feed yourself from the trough, with the same satisfaction, and the same "fashion" effect typical of the pig and the slut.
When Briatore talks about the indescribable experience that one would try in his restaurant, therefore, one of these is to ruin a ham worth tens of euros per kilo. A burnt Rolls Royce is always a wreck, even if before it was a Rolls Royce: and a ruined piece of meat is a ruined piece of meat, even if before it was Pata Negra.
What is certain is that there are no real chefs at Briatore, otherwise some of them would have told them.
The second HORROR that Briatore mentioned, confirming that he had built a place for rich tasteless pigs, is to put buffalo mozzarella on the pizza, instead of the traditional fiordilatte or a more stringy mozzarella.
So, buffalo mozzarella is a masterpiece of traditional cuisine. But its strong point is the aroma of milk, combined with its freshness, which disappear with cooking. So there are two cases: either you put it on the pizza when it comes out of the oven (and give up the stringy mozzarella), or you have just killed the buffalo mozzarella. Which in revenge will kill your pizza, filling it with water.
To obtain a stringy mozzarella on the pizza you need to put it in cooking (but the buffalo mozzarella spins very little), and if you put it in cooking it clearly cooks, losing the aroma. But not only does it cook: the buffalo mozzarella still contains a lot of liquid (unless you use braids, and let them dry first), which will wet the pizza during cooking.
To make a pizza with stringy mozzarella, that is to say that makes the thread, you need a drier mozzarella. The fiordilatte, for example, or the traditional one, according to the denomination.
If you cook the buffalo mozzarella on the pizza, not only will you not get the threads, but you will wet the pizza, and as if that were not enough you will no longer feel the aroma of milk. If you put it at the exit you will not wet the pizza, or you will wet it less, but you will find cold stuff on the pizza, and in any case no wires.
If you want a pizza with cheese spinning, DO NOT put the buffalo on it. There are other mozzarella to make it, including the traditional one. When I see people asking for the hoax on the daisy, I usually try to figure out where the trough is. They are tasteless pigs.
Buffalo mozzarella is made to be eaten in conditions that enhance its aroma and milk aroma. And it doesn't spin, and it's very wet. The only exception is the braid, but you have to dry it with a weight on it for a few days.
Whoever puts the buffalo mozzarella in cooking on the pizza is just an unrealistic pork without taste. He could fill his belly at Mac Donald's, and not force restaurateurs to kill mozzarella that doesn't deserve it.
If I listened to Briatore, my problem would not be whether you put Pata Negra on the pizza or not: if you want to impress me with the name, it's like trying to sell me this car:
telling me it's a Rolls Royce. No. It was. But now it's burned out.
The contemporary enriched pig will surely think that, in the end, the important thing is not whether it is burned or not, but that it is a burned Rolls Royce.
On the other hand, I care that the car works and that I get out of it alive. And even if I decide to buy a RR, I certainly wouldn't set it on fire just to say I have a RR.
The defense of Briatore, “sghei ergo sum”, is not wrong because it says that if you want to eat well you have to pay more: I have no doubts about this. The problem is that from his words it is clear that not only do you NOT eat "well", but that Briatore does not go beyond "i schei", he does not even understand what he is talking about, and does not see any problem in ruining a Pata Negra by putting it on a pizza, because all that interests Briatore, and with him his customers, is not the smell of pizza: they are only interested in the smell of money.
And that's what he does very well. The only thing, I'm afraid, that he does well.